Huascaran 6768 M

PER-12 / 8-day trip / Grade: ED

PEAKS: Huascaran (6768 m)

Huascaran 6768 m 3
OVERVIEW

Huascaran is the highest mountain in Cordillera Blanca and Peru. It’s part of Huascaran’s massif with the the North and South summits. The south summit is highest of both peaks and the most frequented climb. Our itinerary follows the Garganta route on the North West flank of the mountain and normal route to the mountain. Huascaran is not only an extremely high mountain but also a demanding one. We advise you to considered this program as an extension to other significant climbs in the area, which will increase the summit possibilities and enjoyment of ascent.


Day 0 Arrival in Huaraz (3005 m) or climbing extension
Day 1 Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
Day 2 High Camp (4950 m)
Day 3 Camp I (5430 m)
Day 4 Camp II (5980 m)
Day 5 Climb: Huascaran (6768 m)
Day 6 Reserve day for summit attempt
Day 7 Back to Huascaran’s BC (4200 m)
Day 8 Hike to Musho (3050 m) and Huaraz
ITINERARY
Day 0

Arrival in Huaraz or climbing extension
This program aims to climb the highest mountain in Peru, which is also a demanding ascent. Therefore it is important to have in mind that acclimatisation is a fundamental key to a successful attempt. We suggest this program as an extension to other climbs like Chopicalqui, Ranrapalca, Pisco, etc.

If the program is meant to be done without previous acclimatisation, it is important to arrive in Huaraz (3005 m) at least one day before the start of the program, but we advise 2-3 days before, in order to do some acclimatisation hikes like Laguna 69 or Laguna Churup. This option is only for very strong and/or pre acclimatized climbers.

Meeting with the mountain guide in the afternoon to do a gear check and talk about the trip’s itinerary.

Day 1

Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
After breakfast, our vehicle will pick the group up at the hotel/hostel and drive (1.5 h) along the Callejon de Huaylas to the town of Mancos. If the weather is clear, this road trip will give us the best views of the mountain. From Mancos it’s a short drive (30 min) to the village of Musho (3050 m), where the the trail base camp starts. The hike to base camp will take about 4 hours. Night in tents.
Ascent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 4 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner

Day 2

High Camp (4950 m)
Today the team moves to high camp ascending by a long morraien that leads straight up to it. During the hike, the views are stunning over the Huaylas’ valley down below and the first glimpse up to the route. The team of porters will help carrying the campsite gear and food.
Night in tents.
Ascent: 750 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 2.80 km / Activity duration: 5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 3

Camp I (5430 m)
After breakfast and packing up all the gear, the group will move up to the campsite which is located on the glacier.
The hike starts on the same moraine as the day before, and after few minutes the team must gear up for the glacier traverse. The ascent will follow some gentle slopes up to the camp, all crowned by the best view of both Huascaran’s peaks and the famous Huascaran Shield. Night in tents.
Ascent: 480 m / Highest altitude: 5430 m / Distance: 2 km / Activity duration: 3-4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 4

Camp II (5980 m)
After the first night above 5000 meters and an early start, the group will ascend through the canaleta (gorge) and traverse below Shield, to reach camp II located on the col known as “La Garganta” right between the North and South summits of Huascaran. Night in tents.
Ascent: 550 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 1.95 km / Activity duration: 4-5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 5

Climb: Huascaran (6768 m)
Starting at the first break of dawn, the climb traverses the long glacier of “La Garganta” to reach the most technical section of the route, which ascends a slope with some hanging seracs on the upper part. The seracs cause the constant movement of the glacier. The changing condition of this part of the climb diverges from year to year, and sometimes there are short technical sections of up to 50/60 degrees and some crevasses on the last platform before summit. The descent back to camp II will be done by the same route as the ascent. Night in tents.
Ascent: 788 m / Descent: 1788 m / Highest altitude: 6768 m / Distance: 2.30 km / Activity duration: 6-7 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 6

Reserve day for summit attempt
This reserve day is for a summit attempt in case of any eventuality like bad weather, fatigue or sickness. Everything is included while on the mountain, as in the schedule summit day. In case of not using this extra day, all expenses when leaving the mountain are on the participants own account.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner while on the mountain

Day 7

Back to Huascaran’s BC (4200 m)
After a (hopefully) successful attempt to Huascaran’s summit and a second night at camp II, the team will begin a long descent all the way down to base camp, following the same trail as the ascent. Night in tents.
Descent: 1780 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 6.75 km / Activity duration: 6 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner

Day 8

Hike to Musho (3050 m) and Huaraz
This is the last day of the program. Early morning departure down to Musho Village (3050 m). All the heavy loads go on pack animals, then a private vehicle will drive the participants back to Huaraz (2 h).
Descent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 2-3 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

PRICING
PER-12 – To request prices, please click on the BOOK TRIP bottom on the right sidebar and fill the information.

INCLUDED

  • Local English speaking UIAGM mountain guide during the entire program
  • Assistant guides for Huascaran’s climb 1:2
  • Entrances fees to Huascaran National Park
  • Private transportation in the mountain area
  • Quality mountain tents (2 PAX per tent) from day 1 to 7
  • Group common campsite equipment
  • Pack animals for group campsite equipment, food and PAX personal gear
  • Porters to/from high camps for group gear and food
  • Cook during the program
  • Dining and toilet tents
  • Common climbing equipment (Ropes, ice screws, snow pickets, etc.)
  • Complete mountain First Aid kit and Oxygen for emergency porpoises
  • Meals as specified in the day to day itinerary

NOT INCLUDED

  • Domestic and international flights
  • Accommodation (hotels/hostels) in Huaraz
  • Separate airport/bus terminal transfers
  • Personal climbing and camping gear
  • Porter for personal equipment
  • Insurance
  • Tips
  • Everything not mentioned in the “Included” list
MAP

Overview:


Huascaran’s climb:

GALLERY
Tags: Climbing, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, ED grade, Huascaran, ED