Day 0 | Arrival in Huaraz or climbing extension
This program aims to climb the highest mountain in Peru, which is also a demanding ascent. Therefore it is important to have in mind that acclimatisation is a fundamental key to a successful attempt. We suggest this program as an extension to other climbs like Chopicalqui, Ranrapalca, Pisco, etc. If the program is meant to be done without previous acclimatisation, it is important to arrive in Huaraz (3005 m) at least one day before the start of the program, but we advise 2-3 days before, in order to do some acclimatisation hikes like Laguna 69 or Laguna Churup. This option is only for very strong and/or pre acclimatized climbers. Meeting with the mountain guide in the afternoon to do a gear check and talk about the trip’s itinerary. |
Day 1 | Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
After breakfast, our vehicle will pick the group up at the hotel/hostel and drive (1.5 h) along the Callejon de Huaylas to the town of Mancos. If the weather is clear, this road trip will give us the best views of the mountain. From Mancos it’s a short drive (30 min) to the village of Musho (3050 m), where the the trail base camp starts. The hike to base camp will take about 4 hours. Night in tents.
Ascent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 4 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner |
Day 2 | High Camp (4950 m)
Today the team moves to high camp ascending by a long morraien that leads straight up to it. During the hike, the views are stunning over the Huaylas’ valley down below and the first glimpse up to the route. The team of porters will help carrying the campsite gear and food.
Night in tents.
Ascent: 750 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 2.80 km / Activity duration: 5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner |
Day 3 | Camp I (5430 m)
After breakfast and packing up all the gear, the group will move up to the campsite which is located on the glacier.
The hike starts on the same moraine as the day before, and after few minutes the team must gear up for the glacier traverse. The ascent will follow some gentle slopes up to the camp, all crowned by the best view of both Huascaran’s peaks and the famous Huascaran Shield. Night in tents.
Ascent: 480 m / Highest altitude: 5430 m / Distance: 2 km / Activity duration: 3-4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner |
Day 4 | Camp II (5980 m)
After the first night above 5000 meters and an early start, the group will ascend through the canaleta (gorge) and traverse below Shield, to reach camp II located on the col known as “La Garganta” right between the North and South summits of Huascaran. Night in tents.
Ascent: 550 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 1.95 km / Activity duration: 4-5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner |
Day 5 | Climb: Huascaran (6768 m)
Starting at the first break of dawn, the climb traverses the long glacier of “La Garganta” to reach the most technical section of the route, which ascends a slope with some hanging seracs on the upper part. The seracs cause the constant movement of the glacier. The changing condition of this part of the climb diverges from year to year, and sometimes there are short technical sections of up to 50/60 degrees and some crevasses on the last platform before summit. The descent back to camp II will be done by the same route as the ascent. Night in tents.
Ascent: 788 m / Descent: 1788 m / Highest altitude: 6768 m / Distance: 2.30 km / Activity duration: 6-7 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner |
Day 6 | Reserve day for summit attempt
This reserve day is for a summit attempt in case of any eventuality like bad weather, fatigue or sickness. Everything is included while on the mountain, as in the schedule summit day. In case of not using this extra day, all expenses when leaving the mountain are on the participants own account.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner while on the mountain |
Day 7 | Back to Huascaran’s BC (4200 m)
After a (hopefully) successful attempt to Huascaran’s summit and a second night at camp II, the team will begin a long descent all the way down to base camp, following the same trail as the ascent. Night in tents.
Descent: 1780 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 6.75 km / Activity duration: 6 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner |
Day 8 | Hike to Musho (3050 m) and Huaraz
This is the last day of the program. Early morning departure down to Musho Village (3050 m). All the heavy loads go on pack animals, then a private vehicle will drive the participants back to Huaraz (2 h).
Descent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 2-3 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic |