Ishinca Valley Summits & Huascaran

PER-22 / 19-day trip / Grade: AD

PEAKS:  Urus (5495 m) – Ishinca (5530 m) – Tocllaraju (6032 m) – Huascaran (6768 m)

Ishinca Valley Summits & Huascaran
OVERVIEW

Ishinca valley summits & Huscaran’s program, visit two of most popular areas in the Cordillera Blanca: The first is “Quebrada Ishinca” (Quebrada means river valley & Ishinca, snow cover mountain), which conglomerates some of the best know and popular climbs on the range, all-departing from the same base camp. On top of that, Ishinca valley is rapidly accessible from Huaraz making it a perfect spot to summit a variety of peaks is a short lapse of time. The group heads to Ishinca base camp, from where Ishinca, Urus and Tocllaraju will be attempted. Tocllaraju is a beautiful summit, just above 6000 meters, which offers an exiting climb!

After this solid rock acclimatization and training, the itinerary goes to the second area where the highest mountain in the country is: Huascaran (6768 m). The Huascaran’s massif has the twin summits of Huascaran, being the South summit and estimate of 91 meters higher than the North one. The saddle between the summits is known as: “La Garganta” (The throut) and lies at 6010 meters. The normal route climb is very impressive landscape wise and conditions on the route changes a lot from year to year, from PD to AD, and the technical sections changes as well. It is a lifetime trip with lots of enjoyable climbs and also demanding days, in scenery of great beauty!


Day 1 Arrival in Lima – Huaraz (3005 m)
Day 2 Churup lake (4445 m)
Day 3 Ishinca Base Camp (4350 m)
Day 4 Climb: Urus Peak (5495 m)
Day 5 Climb: Ishinca Peak (5530 m)
Day 6 Ishinca BC – Rest Day (4350 m)
Day 7 Tocllaraju’s High Camp
Day 8 Climb: Tocllaraju Peak (6032 m)
Day 9 Back to Huaraz
Day 10 Huaraz – Rest Day
Day 11 Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
Day 12 High Camp (4950 m)
Day 13 Camp I (5430 m)
Day 14 Camp II (5980 m)
Day 15 Climb: Huascaran (6768 m)
Day 16 Back to Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
Day 17 Hike to Musho (3050 m) and Huaraz
Day 18 Huaraz – Lima
Day 19 Departure
ITINERARY
Day 1

Arrival in Lima – Huaraz (3005 m)
Reception at the airport and transfer to bus terminal for tourist public bus to Huaraz. The bus ride takes about 8 hours, depending on the traffic leaving Lima. The road trip goes along the pacific coast, heading north and then eastwards up the Andes. The first sight will be the Huayhash Range, before heading back north where the first summits of the Cordillera Blanca will appear. The road starts to descend towards the city of San Sebastian de Huaraz, locally known just as Huaraz. Huaraz is the capital of the Anchash region and is located in the spectacular Cajon del Huaylas valley, between the Cordillera Negra on the West side and the Cordillera Blanca on the East side, with the highest mountain in the country in the background: Huascaran (6768 m).
Huaraz is the main departing point for mountain activities, both to the Cordillera Blanca and Huashuash range; therefore it is considered the Peruvian “Chamonix”. The city has a wide offer of services as: restaurants, accommodations, grocery stores, gear shops and guide services.
Upon arrival in Huaraz, transfer to the hostel.
Night in hostel.

NOTE: Depending on the arrival time in Lima, it might be necessary to spend a night in the City and travel on to Huaraz next morning.

Day 2

Churup lake (4445 m)
This day hike is one of the classic acclimatization itineraries in the Cordillera Blanca. The Churup peak is located close to Huaraz and can be seen from town. It is ideal to gain a good amount of altitude in a day and return back to Huaraz to sleep low. From Huaraz transfer (1:30 h) to Pitec’s trailhead (3660 m), from this place a very well maintained handmade trail begins its ascent following a ridge that gains altitude quite fast. Soon the handmade trail turns into a mountain trail, as it takes the northern side of the Churup River valley. The ascent gets steeper from this point and a bit demanding. Once on a wide plateau, a well deserved rest, before climbing up the last section where a bit of very easy scrambling secured by a good set of wires lead to a easy last section ending by the shores of the lake at 4445 m. The rocky lake’s shores are a great spot to have a bite while enjoying the amazing sight to the Churup peak. For those who want to challenge themself, it is possible to hike further up 45 minutes to the Churupita lake, right on the moraine (please check this possibility with your guide, as sometimes it is not accesible). The descent follows the same trail and takes an average time of 1,5 h. The transport back to Huaraz.
Night in hostel.
Ascent: 605 m / Descent: 605 m / Highest Altitude: 4445 m / Activity duration: 5-6 h / Distance one-way: 3,1 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

Day 3

Ishinca Base Camp (4350 m)
From Huaraz a 1 hour transfer to the trailhead at Pashpa Cochapampa (3645 m), a place to enjoy the great panoramic view over to Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Hualcán, Copa and several other high peaks. Once the staff has loaded the pack animals, the team will head to the Quebrada Ishinca valley. This is a very enjoyable trail, starting in an wide open area and slowly getting into a narrow gorge, which opens later again with the Palcaraju and Tocllaraju peaks in the background. Base camp (4350 m) is beautifully located over a green meadow, split by the Ishinca River which flows down from Milluacocha Lake, and at the foot of Tocllaraju and Urus, a perfect departing spot for the coming days.
Night in tent.
Ascent: 705 m / Highest Altitude: 4350 m / Activity duration: 4-5 h / Distance: 15,1 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 4

Climb: Urus Peak (5495 m)
The climb starts before dawn, taking a trail just beside the hut. Urus is lower than Ishinca, but its ascent is far steeper and thankfully shorter. The first section goes in an almost strait line up to the moraine, from where it gets gentler and finds its way by a maze of rocks and gullies until the base of the glacier. The team will take a break and gear up to ascent the first part of the glacier, which is quite steep until some rocky slopes. The rest of the climb is less demanding, crossing over a glacier split by rock bands. The last section is an easy scrambling over a rocky ridge that leads up to the summit. There is a fantastic view northwards to: Huascaran, Chopicalqui and the Huandoys. To the South Ishinca and Ranrapalca, and to the East Tocllaraju and the Palcaraju ridge with its 3 summits.
The descent is done by the same trail.
Night in tent.
Ascent: 1145 m / Descent: 1145 m / Highest Altitude: 5495 m / Activity duration: 8-10 h / Distance one-way: 2,8 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 5

Climb: Ishinca Peak (5530 m)
Very early departure after a light breakfast. The ascent takes the switchbacks of the Ishinca trail up to the Ishinca Lake. The guide will decide the best route according to the mountain’s conditions and the team’s shape. Ishinca is a very scenic mountain, surrounded by mountain like giant Ranraplaca (6162 m) to the southwest and the Palcaraju (6180 m) and Tocllaraju (6032 m) to the north. On every direction there are distant summits and great landscapes to enjoy, as the sunrises over the Cordillera Blanca.
The climb is strait forward, very enjoyable and a perfect acclimatization of higher peaks. When the conditions allow it, it can be climb by one side and descent by another, making a circular itinerary. Most of the ascent is over a gentle slope that gets steeper just before the summit.
The descent follows the same trail back to Base camp.
Night in tent.
Ascent: 1180 m / Descent: 1180 m / Highest Altitude: 5530 m / Activity duration: 10-12 h / Distance one-way: 7,6 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 6

Ishinca BC – Rest Day (4350 m)
Relaxing day at base camp, to recover and enjoy this lovely place.
Night in tent.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 7

Tocllaraju’s high camp (5090 m)
After packing down the camp, the group will head up to Tocllaraju high camp (5090 m) by a trail north from the camp. The hike ascend the southern flank of the mountain side that connects Tocllaraju with Urus, by a well-marked trail that gain altitude progressively to the campsite, located very close to the glacier’s edge. Upon arrival, the staff and clients will set up the tents and prepare for the next day’s climb. The guide will give a good and detailed briefing about the itinerary and procedures during the climb. Afternoon for rest and acclimatization.
Night in tent.
Ascent: 740 m / Highest Altitude: 5090 m / Activity duration: 4 h / Distance: 2,9 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 8

Climb: Tocllaraju Peak (6032 m)
Tocllaraju is one of the most aesthetic mountains in the Ishinca valley, with a pyramid shaped summit with four faces that drop down to the glaciers below. The mountain is surrounded by deep the valleys of Ishinca, Akilpo and Honda. Its closest neighbour is the Palcaraju peak and its gigantic dazzling glacier. Tocllaraju is just above 6000 meters and makes it a perfect candidate for those looking to go beyond the six thousand mark, anyway, it is not an easy mountain. The most popular route is the 1963 one from the Ishinca valley up to Northwest ridge.
Very early start from high camp, entering the glacier shortly after. The first part of the climb is over a compacted glacier, which get quite crevasses as one gets higher. Reaching the NW ridge is usually one of the main complexities of the ascent, but this changes from year to year. The most beautiful part of the climb is once on the NW ridge, a very scenic spot! The ridge is wide and once on it the inclination is around 55-60º. There are some crevasses on the ridge and it might take some time for the guide to find the right passages and secure them. It is for sure an exiting climb!
The decent follows the same route all the way back to base camp. It is a long way down, specially after such a climb.
Night in tent.
Ascent: 952 m / Descent: 1692 m / Highest Altitude: 6032 m / Activity duration: 14 h / Distance to the summit one-way: 3,1 Km. / Descent from the summit to base camp: 6 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 9

Back to Huaraz
After a good rest and a easygoing breakfast, the group will start the descent to Huaraz. The hike from Ishinca’s base camp to Pashpa Cochapampa (3645 m) takes between 3 to 4 hours. Upon arrival the transport (1 h) will be waiting to take the group back to Huaraz.
Night in hostel.
Descend: 705 m / Highest Altitude: 4350 m / Activity duration: 3-4 h / Distance: 15,1 Km.
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

Day 10

Huaraz – Rest Day
Day to recover and relax in Huaraz. The city offers a wide variety of restaurants, bars, cafes and shops to hang around at. Possible extra activities in the town can be arranged such as visiting the nearby archaeological ruins, Zip-lines, tour to the hot springs, rock climbing, etc. The guide can provide information on these options.
Night in hostel.
Included meals: Breakfast

Day 11

Huascaran’s Base Camp (4200 m)
After breakfast, our vehicle will pick the group up at the hotel/hostel and drive (1.5 h) along the Callejon de Huaylas to the town of Mancos. If the weather is clear, this road trip will give us the best views of the mountain. From Mancos it’s a short drive (30 min) to the village of Musho (3050 m), where the the trail base camp starts. The hike to base camp will take about 4 hours.
Night in tents.
Ascent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 12

High Camp (4950 m)
Today the team moves to high camp ascending by a long morraien that leads straight up to it. During the hike, the views are stunning over the Huaylas’ valley down below and the first glimpse up to the route. The team of porters will help carrying the campsite gear and food.
Night in tents.
Ascent: 750 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 2.80 km / Activity duration: 5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 13

Camp I (5430 m)
After breakfast and packing up all the gear, the group will move up to the campsite which is located on the glacier.
The hike starts on the same moraine as the day before, and after few minutes the team must gear up for the glacier traverse. The ascent will follow some gentle slopes up to the camp, all crowned by the best view of both Huascaran’s peaks and the famous Huascaran Shield. Night in tents.
Ascent: 480 m / Highest altitude: 5430 m / Distance: 2 km / Activity duration: 3-4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 14

Camp II (5980 m)
After the first night above 5000 meters and an early start, the group will ascend through the canaleta (gorge) and traverse below Shield, to reach camp II located on the col known as “La Garganta” right between the North and South summits of Huascaran. Night in tents.
Ascent: 550 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 1.95 km / Activity duration: 4-5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 15

Climb: Huascaran (6768 m)
Starting at the first break of dawn, the climb traverses the long glacier of “La Garganta” to reach the most technical section of the route, which ascends a slope with some hanging seracs on the upper part. The seracs cause the constant movement of the glacier. The changing condition of this part of the climb diverges from year to year, and sometimes there are short technical sections of up to 50/60 degrees and some crevasses on the last platform before summit. The descent back to camp II will be done by the same route as the ascent. Night in tents.
Ascent: 788 m / Descent: 1788 m / Highest altitude: 6768 m / Distance: 2.30 km / Activity duration: 6-7 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 16

Back to Huascaran’s BC (4200 m)
After a (hopefully) successful attempt to Huascaran’s summit and a second night at camp II, the team will begin a long descent all the way down to base camp, following the same trail as the ascent. Night in tents.
Descent: 1780 m / Highest altitude: 5980 m / Distance: 6.75 km / Activity duration: 6 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner

Day 17

Hike to Musho (3050 m) and Huaraz
This is the last day of the program. Early morning departure down to Musho Village (3050 m). All the heavy loads go on pack animals, then a private vehicle will drive the participants back to Huaraz (2 h).
Descent: 1150 m / Highest altitude: 4200 m / Distance: 6.35 km / Activity duration: 2-3 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

Day 18

Huaraz – Lima & departure
Transfer-out to Huaraz’s bus terminal for a tourist public bus to Lima (8 h). Upon arrival in Lima, there will be a transfer to the international airport (30 min) for the international flight departure.
End of services.
Included meals: Breakfast

Day 19

Lima – Huaraz
Free day in Huaraz to do last minute shopping and enjoy the many nice restaurants in town.
In the evening, transfer to bus terminal for a night public tourist bus to Lima (8 h).
Included meals: Breakfast

PRICING
PER-22 – Prices per person in USD in shared international group with fix departure dates. Dates will be 100% confirmed once the minimum number of people is reached (3 persons) / valid until 31.10.2018.
Price per persons traveling in a shared international group3900

DEPARTURE DATES for 2018: 

  • July 11 – July 29, 2018 – not confirm

SEE ALL FIXED DEPARTURES


INCLUDED

  • Local English speaking mountain guide from day 2 to 17
  • Assistant guides during the mountain itinerary and climbs 1:3
  • Assistant guides for Tocllaraju & Huascaran climb 1:2
  • Entrances fees to Huascaran National Park
  • Private transfers in Lima
  • First class public bus Lima-Huaraz-Lima
  • Private transportation in the mountain area
  • 5 nights in shared double rooms in Huaraz
  • Quality mountain tents (2 PAX per tent) from day 3-8 & 11-16
  • Group common campsite equipment
  • Pack animals for group campsite equipment, food and PAX personal gear
  • Porters to/from high camp on Tocllaraju/Huascaran for common and personal gear
  • Cook during the trek
  • Dining and toilet tents
  • Common climbing equipment (Ropes, ice screws, snow pickets, etc)
  • Complete mountain First Aid kit and Oxygen for emergency porpoises
  • Meals as specified in the day to day itinerary

NOT INCLUDED

  • Domestic and international flights
  • Separate airport transfers in case of multiple arrival/departures
  • Personal camping equipment
  • Insurance
  • Tips
  • Everything not mentioned in the “Included” list
HOTEL LIST

HUARAZ: Hostel La Casa de Zarela or similar

MAP

Overview:

Ishinca Valley:

Huascaran:

Tags: Climbing, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Churup, AD, AD grade, Ishinca, Urus, Tocllaraju, Huascaran, Huaraz, Fxed