Alpamayo 5947 M

PER-11 / 8-day trip / Grade: ED

PEAKS: Alpamayo (5947 m)

Alpamayo 5947 m
OVERVIEW

Alpamayo it is part of Pucajirca massif and is located in the northern sector of Cordillera Blanca. In July 1966 it was named “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World” by the German magazine “Alpinismus”.

This climbing experience is ideal for people who are seeking technical challenges at high altitude. Our programs follows the “French Direct” route which has eight pitches of the best quality technical climbing, with slopes between 50, 60, 65 and nearly 70-80 degrees (few steps) and ending on knife-edged summit corniced ridges.


Day 0 Arrival in Huaraz, Peru (3005 m)
Day 1 Huaraz – Paria’s Campsite (3800 m)
Day 2 Alpamayo’s Base Camp (4350 m)
Day 3 Hike to High Camp (4950 m) & back to BC
Day 4 High Camp (4950 m)
Day 5 Col Camp (5450 m)
Day 6 Climb: Alpamayo (5947 m)
Day 7 Back to Base camp
Day 8 Hike to Cascapampa (2900 m) and Huaraz
ITINERARY
Day 0

Arrival in Huaraz, Peru (3005 m)
It is important to arrive in Huaraz (3005 m) at least one day before the start of the program, but we advise 2-3 days before, in order to do some acclimatisation hikes. We recommended hikes like Laguna 69 or Laguna Churup.

Meeting with the mountain guide in the afternoon to do a gear check and talk about the trip’s itinerary.

Day 1

Huaraz – Paria’s Campsite (3800 m)
After breakfast, our vehicle will pick the group up at the hotel/hostel and drive four hours through the famous Valley of Llanganuco, crossing over the Andes by the Portachuelo mountain pass and on to the Eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca, ending the trip at the Vaqueria settlement (3650 m). From this point a two-hour hike starts to the first camping spot: Paria. Night in tents.
Ascent: 350 m / Descent: 200 m / Highest altitude: 5800 m / Distance: 9.40 km / Activity duration: 4 h
Included meals: Picnic, Dinner

Day 2

Alpamayo’s Base Camp (4350 m)
This hike goes back over the Andes, this time on foot, winding back to the the Western side of Cordillera Blanca through Punta Union mountain pass (4750 m) and ending the hike at Alpamayo’s Base Camp. Base camp is surrounded by several impressive peaks: Quitaraju, Pucajirca, Artesonraju and Alpamayo itself. Night in tents.
Ascent: 950 m / Descent: 400 m / Highest altitude: 5126 m / Distance: 15.80 km / Activity duration: 6 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 3

Hike to High Camp (4950 m) & back to BC
After breakfast, we start our hike towards high camp. We will carry some of our gear to the camp, with this we’ll acclimatize and reduce the weight for the next day’s ascent. Then we’ll return back to Base Camp for another night.
Ascent: 600 m / Descent: 600 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 3.80 km / Activity duration: 5 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 4

High Camp (4950 m)
Today the team moves to first high camp with all the provisions. There will be porter support, who will help to carry some of the camp and food. The high camp is located just by the glacier’s edge with a magnificent view and location, perfect to enjoy some of the best views in the Cordillera Blanca. Night in tents.
Ascent: 600 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 1.90 km / Activity duration: 3 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 5

Col Camp (5450 m)
On the early morning the group begins the ascent across the Alpamayo’s glacier, traversing a long plateau until reaching a steeper section where the most demanding part is. There are two technical pitches of an incline between 50 to 60 degrees. Shortly after, we come to the highest camp known as Col Camp – departing point for the summit bid. Night in tents.
Ascent: 500 m / Highest altitude: 5450 m / Distance: 1.80 km / Activity duration: 4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 6

Climb: Alpamayo (5947 m)
Starting with a very early breakfast, the climbers will proceed with the alpine climb after traversing the glacier, reaching a well marked bergschrund located at the base of Alpamayo’s southwest face. The climb follows the “French Direct” route, with slopes between 50, 60, 65 and nearly 70-80 degrees (few last steps). After climbing eight pitches, the summit will be reached following a thin, knife-edged, summit corniced ridge. Descent by the same route and return to high camp. Night in tents.
Ascent: 497 m / Descend: 497 m / Highest altitude: 5947 m / Distance: 0.68 km / Activity duration: 10 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 7

Back to base camp
After the second night at Col camp, the group descends all the way back down to base camp, tracing back the same route of the ascent. The first part requires a couple of rappels and then an easy trail down to Base Camp. Night in tents.
Descent: 1100 m / Highest altitude: 5450 m / Distance: 3.70 km / Activity duration: 3-4 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 8

Hike to Cashapampa (2900 m) and Huaraz
This is the last day of the program. Early morning departure down to Cascapampa Village (2900 m). All the heavy loads go on pack animals, then a private vehicle will drive the participants back to Huaraz (3.5 h).
Descent: 1450 m / Highest altitude: 4950 m / Distance: 22.48 km / Activity duration: 6-7 h
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

PRICING
PER-11 – To request prices, please click on the BOOK TRIP bottom on the right sidebar and fill the information.

INCLUDED

  • Local English speaking UIAGM mountain guide during the entire program
  • Assistant guides for Alpamayo’s climb 1:2
  • Entrances fees to Huascaran National Park
  • Private transportation in the mountain area
  • Quality mountain tents (2 PAX per tent) from day 2 to 7
  • Group common campsite equipment
  • Pack animals for group campsite equipment, food and PAX personal gear
  • Porters to/from high camps on Alpamayo for group gear and food
  • Cook during the program
  • Dining and toilet tents
  • Common climbing equipment (Ropes, ice screws, snow pickets, etc.)
  • Complete mountain First Aid kit and Oxygen for emergency porpoises
  • Meals as specified in the day to day itinerary

NOT INCLUDED

  • Domestic and international flights
  • Accommodation (hotels/hostels) in Huaraz
  • Separate airport/bus terminal transfers
  • Personal climbing and camping gear
  • Porter for personal gear
  • Insurance
  • Tips
  • Everything not mentioned in the “Included” list
MAP

Overview:


Alpamayo’s trek:


Alpamayo’s climb:

GALLERY
Tags: Climbing, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo, ED grade, ED, Huaraz